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An Amazon 2013 Best of the YearPick
The French, "sans doute," " "love their "fromages." And there's
much to love: hundreds of gloriously pungent varieties--crumbly,
creamy, buttery, even shot through with bottle-green mold. So many
varieties, in fact, that the aspiring gourmand may wonder: How does
one make sense of it all?
In "The Whole Fromage," Kathe Lison sets out to learn what makes
French cheese so remarkable--why France is the "Cheese Mother
Ship," in the words of one American expert. Her journey takes her
to cheese caves tucked within the craggy volcanic rock of Auvergne,
to a centuries-old monastery in the French Alps, and to the
farmlands that keep cheesemaking traditions alive." "She meets the
dairy scientists, shepherds, and "affineurs" who make up the world
of modern French cheese, and whose lifestyles and philosophies are
as varied and flavorful as the delicacies they produce. Most
delicious of all, she meets the cheeses themselves--from
spruce-wrapped Mont d'Or, so gooey it's best eaten with a spoon; to
luminous Beaufort, redolent of Alpine grasses and wildflowers, a
single round of which can weigh as much as a Saint Bernard; to
Camembert, invented in Normandy but beloved and imitated across the
world.
With writing as piquant and rich as a well-aged Roquefort, as
charming as a tender springtime "chevre," and yet as unsentimental
as a stinky Maroilles, "The Whole Fromage" is a tasty exploration
of one of the great culinary treasures of France.
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